Outside cold, inside warm
Early morning. Between the years, or perhaps later, in February: Everything is covered in snow, everything has a bluish tint. The mountain peaks opposite are lit from behind, bathed in a soft pink. It is completely still.
A still life composed of cold and light. Only your own breath rises up, a small white cloud that immediately vanishes. Perhaps the thin frost crackles beneath your shoes. Perhaps it is one of those days where you feel as if the world has just been freshly powdered-and you along with it. And then, quite gently, something begins to wake up: a bird call from the woods. Above the Tannerfeld, a whisper of steam, like a hint of the sun.
When the sun rises over the mountain, a new, clear day begins.
A few walkers are already out; the snow-clearing service hasn't arrived yet, so they take advantage of the pristine morning and the silence, trudging through the snow and leaving their tracks. Perhaps they are walking from the Tannerhof to the "Melkstatt," a small trail winding through the flat land along the edge of the forest. They stroll comfortably in the snow as the sun slowly crests the mountain. Maybe they'll head straight back, or perhaps loop through the village. When they return, they will have thoroughly absorbed a wonderful morning.
The first eager cross-country skiers are gliding along the prepared trails next to the Melkstatt. They probably came on foot across the Tannerfeld and stepped directly onto the track. Quietly, unnoticed, without needing to take the car first. They know they want to soak up the mood and the peace, to be alone and unified with themselves, with nature, with the snow, and with their breath and movement.
They set off, heading first towards Austria, and soon have to decide whether they want to turn right into the Klooaschautal, going up a stream bed, or left into the Nesslertal. Perhaps they will come back in the afternoon at sunset and take the other route: the one towards Geitau, passing through forests and along a stream, enjoying the panorama near the Geitau airfield with views of the Aiplspitz and Miesing mountains. Maybe they'll even spend the afternoon skiing with Karin Weilbach, the cross-country instructor, or her crew, learning how to glide, how to skate, and mastering the technique and their own abilities.
The first downhill skiers are starting to appear. Those who prefer not to drive come directly from the Tannerhof, casually loading their skis onto their shoulders. They walk ten minutes, a short distance up the road, and then hop onto the "Schwebelift"-a single-seater chairlift, truly retro. It ascends slowly, passing over Bayrischzell and up to the Sudelfeld. Even if they never actually skied down, the trip up would have been worth it. The Sudelfeld is a cozy, uncrowded ski area with no wait times. There are lovely huts: the Speckalm, the Walleralm, the Schindelberger Alm. And the run goes all the way down to Bayrischzell, dropping from 1,480 m to 800 m.
Those seeking a faster pace have driven the 3 km from Bayrischzell by ski bus or car to the Wendelstein cable car. The skiing there is more demanding. However, the Wendelstein requires a certain amount of snow. The sun shines harder there and the snow melts more quickly.
This is something the ski tourers take advantage of, since the lifts cannot operate when there is too little or melted snow. They then use the slopes, walking up and skiing down. Ski tourers are out at all hours. They climb up beautifully and quietly, savoring nature. And then they rush down, flying over groomed runs or deep powder. They are everywhere here: in the Rotwand area from Geitau or Spitzing. They go to the Miesing and the Taubenstein. Or, in the evenings, they ascend the deserted slopes to reach the huts. This is possible from Sunday to Wednesday on the Taubenstein and Sudelfeld. Safe ski touring enjoyed with the romance of headlamps.
Ski tourers? Quiet heroes. Early, late - always one with the snow and the slope.
Many hikers are out and about. They make their way through beautiful snow in the serene solitude of the mountains and winter. They tramp around in mountain boots or snowshoes, climbing up the mountains on well-established hiking trails. Families are out with their children. At the Tannerfeld, the little ones can learn to ski, using a moving carpet to get up the hill before they snowplow down the slope with their helmets on. Or the whole family can try snow tubing, riding a huge inflatable tube down the Tannerfeld. Don't forget your helmet! Those who prefer something more traditional simply take their sled and ride down. And the nostalgics sit in horse-drawn sleighs, go ice skating on the surrounding lakes like the Schliersee or the Thiersee. Or they try Bavarian curling - something completely different.
Soaking up warmth in the comfort of your own four walls.
Soon, when they are all frozen through, they are drawn back inside to the warm room. To the sauna. Nothing more is really needed then. Or to the fireplace. With a cup of tea or coffee. Soaking up warmth in the comfort of four walls. Perhaps enjoying the solitude in a hut. Or the view from a hut tower: How peacefully a hood lies over everything. The snow, covering everything, making everything soft. And internally quiet and warm . . .
